RV Storage Tips:
The Complete Guide

Clean and sanitize all countertops, cabinets, appliances, floors, and upholstery. Any food residue, grease, or organic matter left behind becomes a mold and pest magnet over a long winter. Pay special attention to the microwave, stovetop, and any crevices around the sink. A clean interior is significantly less attractive to insects and rodents than a dirty one.

Take out all food, drinks, condiments, medications, sunscreen, and anything else that can freeze, spoil, or leak. Check cabinets, under seats, the pantry, and any cargo bays. Canned goods are fine to leave, but anything in glass is a risk — glass jars can crack if the contents freeze and expand.

Turn off the refrigerator, defrost it completely, and wipe down all interior surfaces with a baking soda solution to neutralize odors. Leave both the fridge and freezer doors propped open during storage — a sealed fridge with any residual moisture will grow mold within weeks. A box of baking soda placed inside helps absorb odors.

RV house batteries will self-discharge and can freeze if left depleted in cold temperatures. Disconnect the negative terminal first, remove the batteries, and store them somewhere cool but above freezing. Connect them to a smart battery maintainer — not a basic trickle charger, which can overcharge. Lithium batteries handle cold better than AGM or flooded lead-acid but should still be stored with a charge.

Turn off the main propane valve at the tank. Make sure all appliances are off and all pilot lights are extinguished — refrigerator, furnace, water heater, and stovetop. It's good practice to leave interior appliance valves in the off position during storage. Propane itself doesn't degrade, so a full tank stored properly is fine.

Place DampRid or similar desiccant moisture absorbers in the main cabin, bathroom, and bedroom. Even with the RV sealed, humidity fluctuations cause condensation inside. Check and replace absorbers partway through winter if possible. Leave cabinet doors and drawers cracked open to allow air circulation — still, sealed air is where mold develops.

Before you close up for winter, do a thorough sweep: plug any gaps around plumbing penetrations and cable entries with steel wool, remove all food and trash, and place a few dryer sheets or peppermint-soaked cotton balls in corners and under seats. These are standard precautions for any stored vehicle and go a long way toward a pest-free spring opening.

Locate the fresh water tank drain (usually a valve underneath the RV) and open it fully. Tip the RV if possible to encourage complete drainage. Run all the faucets — hot and cold — until no water flows. Don't forget the toilet flush and any exterior shower. The goal is zero standing water anywhere in the system.

Dump both tanks at a proper dump station before storage — never store with waste in the tanks. After dumping, add a few gallons of water and RV tank cleaner to the black tank, drive around briefly to slosh it, then dump again. Finish by adding RV antifreeze to both tanks (a cup in each) to protect the dump valve seals and any residual moisture.

Install bypass valves (most modern RVs have them) to isolate the water heater before adding antifreeze. A 6-gallon water heater would otherwise require 6 gallons of antifreeze to fill — the bypass lets you skip it. Drain the water heater tank separately by removing the anode rod or opening the drain plug.

Two methods work: compressed air (blow out each line until no water sprays from the faucets) or pumping non-toxic RV antifreeze (pink, not automotive) through the water pump until it appears at each fixture. The antifreeze method is more reliable for complex plumbing systems. Open every faucet, the toilet, exterior shower, and any ice maker line until you see pink.

Pour a cup of RV antifreeze down each sink drain and the shower drain to protect the P-traps. Pour another cup into the toilet bowl and flush partially so antifreeze sits in the trap. These small amounts of standing water in traps are often overlooked and can crack the drain fittings if they freeze.

Use an RV-specific soap (not household detergent, which can strip sealant) and a soft brush on a long handle for the roof. Remove all dirt, oxidation, tree sap, and bird droppings. A clean surface lets you see damage clearly and helps wax and sealant adhere properly.

Walk the roof carefully and inspect every sealant joint: around vents, air conditioner bases, antennas, skylights, and any roof penetration. RV sealant dries out and cracks over time — especially under UV exposure. Self-leveling lap sealant is the correct product for roof seams. Any crack or gap, no matter how small, is a water intrusion point. This is the single highest-ROI maintenance task you can do.

Inspect the rubber seals around every window, door, and slide-out for cracking, compression failure, or gaps. Apply a rubber conditioner (like 303 Aerospace Protectant) to keep seals pliable through winter. Lubricate slide-out mechanisms with dry PTFE lubricant — avoid grease, which attracts debris.

Wax the sidewalls and front cap with an RV-specific wax or polymer protectant. For fiberglass surfaces this prevents oxidation; for aluminum-sided RVs it protects the clearcoat and painted surfaces. The roof on rubber (EPDM) units benefits from a UV-protective roof treatment applied annually.

A quality breathable RV cover protects against UV, precipitation, and debris. Look for a cover rated for your RV type (Class A, Class C, travel trailer) with built-in vents to prevent moisture buildup underneath. Covers without vents trap condensation and do more harm than good. For indoor storage, a cover isn't required but a roof cover or tarp over the top adds a useful extra layer.

Tires lose 1–3 PSI per month naturally. For long-term storage, inflate to the maximum cold pressure listed on the sidewall (not the vehicle door placard). This reduces flat-spotting, which occurs when a heavy RV sits on the same spot of a slightly underinflated tire for months. Check pressure again before you pull out in spring.

UV is the primary cause of dry rot and sidewall cracking on stored tires. If storing outdoors, use tire covers — even simple vinyl ones make a significant difference. Apply a UV-protectant tire dressing before covering. Avoid petroleum-based tire dressings, which can actually accelerate cracking over time. Look for water-based options.

Apply a dry lubricant or white lithium grease to all exterior hinges, compartment door locks, the hitch coupler, and leveling jack mechanisms. Moving parts that sit unused for months can seize or corrode, especially through a wet Ohio winter. A few minutes of lubrication now prevents stuck locks and seized jacks in spring.

Place wheel chocks on both sides of at least one axle to prevent any rolling. Lower your stabilizer jacks to take some weight off the suspension and tires — but don't use them to fully lift the tires off the ground (stabilizers aren't designed for that load). If storing on a soft surface, place boards under the jacks to prevent sinking.